This is a heavy duty voltage tester that handles 120 to 600 volts AC/DC with a limit of 600 volts. This unit lights up and uses a solenoid to vibrate to let you know that there is voltage. The tester has clamps for the test leads so that you can operate it using one hand. This unit does not require batteries to operate, but a live circuit.
This is a standard contact voltage sensor that ranges from 80 to 480 volts AC/DC that can handle up to 600 volts. This unit is equipped with a slide on the side of the unit to connect both ends for easy outlet testing. You can easily separate the ends to test points that are further apart. This unit does not require batteries to operate, but a live circuit.
Unlike our basic GFCI outlet tester this unit tests the ground to tell you if it’s good or not. If the ground resistance is greater than 10 ohms, this unit will illuminate a red indicator light showing that the ground is bad. This unit does not require batteries to operate, but a live circuit.
This is your basic GFCI outlet tester that checks to make sure that your outlets electrical wiring is correct. This unit also has a button on it that will test your outlets GFCI to make sure it functions correctly. We have a standard video in our video section that explains how to use this unit. This unit does not require batteries to operate, but a live circuit.
This tester is a lot like the ET6102 but offers 3 more voltage testing ranges and a higher voltage range of 80 to 480 volts AC/DC and can handle up to but not exceeding 600 volts. It’s slightly larger than the ET6102, but it is rated to be double insulated for better protection. This unit does not require a battery to operate, but a live circuit.
ET6102 – This is a basic single range contact voltage tester that tests electrical circuits from 80 to 250 volts AC/DC and is rated to handle up to but not exceeding 300 volts. This unit does not require a battery to operate, but a live circuit.
The way this unit is designed helps make using it simple. The test leads are clipped into place so that you only need one hand to operate it and it’s size makes it great for storing it in your pocket.
PSI8031 – This is a Phase Sequence and Open Phase Indicator, it’s designed to verify proper if there is an open phase in 3-phase motor application. This unit does not require a battery to operate, but a live circuit.
If the indicator lights are on than there is no open phase and the rotating disc will move. If one of the lights doesn’t come in the rotating disc will not move and it will indicate an open phase.
TT6200L – Basic phone line tester that tells you if the line(s) is good or not. This unit does not use any batteries to operate.
Green –Line is Good
Red – Line is reversed
Green & Red – You have 2 active lines
Yellow – AC voltage is on the line
No Lights – Line is dead
There are two parts to this tester, the transmitter that has the on/off switch and the receiver that has the indicator lights. When you turn the unit on the power button should blink, this is telling you that the tester is sending out a continuous signal to its other smaller counterpart. It will keep sending out that signal until it’s turned off. No matter what you are testing it will send the same signal starting with the data cable (RJ45) test and ending with the TV cable (Coax) test. It sends this test out one set of cables (pairs) at a time and every time it finishes it restarts until it’s turned off. This means that each LED will blink once in series starting with 1-2 and ending with Coax depending on what you’re testing.
The LED’s will tell you what the test results are for what you’re testing. Green means it’s good and red means it’s reversed or bad and needs rewired. If there isn’t any light indicator that means there is a break or short somewhere in the connection that you will have to fix. If you test the cable and it works but the LED did not flash indicating a short you should check the battery or return the product for warranty replacement, sometimes the LED’s go bad. Always test the cable by itself, never run it through a switch or a hub. Anything with power on it can burn out the LED’s on the tester and render it unusable.
Remember that no matter what, when you turn the tester on, it constantly sends out a signal no matter what you’re testing. A good example would be to plug in both types of cables, turn the device on and watch the LED’s. All of them will blink one at a time in series and continue to do so until turned off.
The Battery compartment can be found in the transmitter, that’s the larger of the two parts. Unscrew the back and you’ll find a spot to place the 2 triple A batteries. Once the batteries are in place you can replace the cover; you can slide the two units together for storage or for transport.
We have manuals for many of the meters that are no longer manufactured by us. If you don’t see the manual that your looking for on our website than please email us at the below address with the meters model number in the subject line. If you don’t have a model number than please attach a picture of the unit so that we can try to identify it.
If you see a manual and the link doesn’t work please email us by using the link below.